Saree Blouse
This
Blouse is commonly used with saree. The Accompanying drats is
designed for figure with prominent bust. Four darts are taken
around the apex of bust, to get a nice fit. For this the distance
from the neck point 19 to the apex of bust can be measured and
applied while locating point 28 , after adding 1.5 cm (1/2”)
seam allowance.
Opening may be kept at the front or back . As the front width
is kept more than the back, the sideseam comes exactly midway
the armpit. For this, the sleeve seam should be joined at a
point, 1.5 cm (1/2”) inside point 16.
.
Measure
1. Chest 87cm (34 inch)
2. Waist 68 cm (27 inch)
3. Full length 33 cm (13 inch)
4. Shoulder 16.5 cm (6 ½")
5. Sleeve with shoulder 40 cm (16 inch)
6. Sleeve round 24 cm(9 ½")
Instruction for Drafting
Back:
Square lines from 0 , fold at 2-0
1-0 = one eight chest plus 5 cm (2")
2-0 = full length less 1.5 cm (1/2")
Square out from 1 and 2
3-0 = one eight chest or to test
4-0 = one twelfth chest or to test
Shape neck 4-3
5-0 = shoulder plus 1 cm (1/4")
Square down from 5 to 6
7-5 = 1.5 cm (1/2")
Join 3-7 8-1 = one fourth chest
Shape scye 7-8
Square down from 8 to 9
10-9 = 2 cm (3/4") Join 8-10
11-2 = one twelfth chest plus 1.5 cm (1/2")
Square up from 11 to 12
12 is 4 cm (1 ½") below the chest line 1-8
Take 2 cm (3/4") dart at 11-12
For back opening, if required take point 20 on line 13-14
21-18 = same as 5 to 0 of back
Square down from 21 to 22
23-21 = 1.5 cm (1/2")
Join 19-23
24-22 = nearly 2.5 cm (1")
Shape scye 23-24-16
25-17 and 26-15 = 4cm (1 ½") each Join 26-25
Darts:
27-14 = one twelfth chest plus 2 cm (3/4")
28-29 is squared down from 27
28-27 = one eight chest less 4cm (1 ½")
or bust length from shoulder at 9 plus 1.5 cm (1/2")
Take 4 cm (1 ½") dart at 29
For more prominent bust suppress more cloth in this dart
30-14 = same as 28 to 27
Take 1.5 to 2 cm (1/2 to ¾") dart at 30
31-16 = one eight chest
Front:
Draw line 13-14-15 and produce the lines of back as shown
16-14 = one fourth chest plus 4 cm (1 ½")
Square down from 16 to 17
18-13 = 1.5 cm (1/2")
Shape 18-14 as shown in fig 2
19-18 = same as 3 to 0 of back
20-18 = one eight chest or to taste
Shape neck 20-19 or 1.5 cm (1/2") more
32-31 = 1.5 cm (1/2")
33-31 = 1.5 cm (1/2" from 31 and 1 cm (1/4") inside line 16-17
Take dart 33-28-32 as shown
34-26 = one fourth waist plus 1.5 cm (1/2") + dart width at
20
Join 33-34
If required take a dart at 24 Keep 2 to 2.5 cm (3/4" to 1")
inlays Outside 8-10 and 16-34
Sleeve:
Coming soon